One thing I would highly recommend to visitors of this region is a trip to see the remaining mountain gorillas - there are around 700 left of which +300 are in Bwindi in Uganda. The cost is high (currently US$500 for the permit but rumoured to be going up to US$1000), the roads to get there are treacherous and the hike was brutal but the one hour we got to spend with the Gorillas made it all worth it.
Our journey started on Thursday when Jen and I were picked up by Helle to buy snacks, pick up some pizza for dinner and head to bed early at her house so we could leave bright and early. By 640am Helle, Martin, Jen and I were in the car and ready to go. The first part of the route is one I was familiar with as I had traveled along it when I first arrived in Uganda. We stopped for a coffee at the Equator - I was able to get a frapucinno (not a Starbucks one but still pretty amazing). We were aiming to be in Mbarara by lunch to pick up Anthony and continue on our way. There is a lot of work being done on the roads and there are a lot of crazy bus drivers in Uganda which makes the driving a bit nerve-wracking. At one point we did a bit of hydro-planing in the mud - but luckily there was nothing to hit:) As we approached Mbarara is seemed that we had a flat tire. We stopped at a service station only to find out that one of the brake pads was shot.
Car Trouble
We hopped on some bodas (safety in daylight and in numbers) and headed to Anthony's hotel where we had lunch and waited for the car to be delivered to us. One of the great things about Uganda is how inexpensive it is to get the car fixed - it cost us 130,000UGX (around $65) in parts and labour and it was done within two hours. With the car fixed and Anthony in tow we were back on the roads towards Kisoro. We reached Kabale around 545pm and then the roads got twisty and turny. The two towns are 30km apart but the road route is 80kms around and up and down a mountain. We reached are hotel around 730 had a quick dinner and off to bed to prepare for our early start to the Gorillas!.
We were on the road by just after 6am and were treated to more of the same roads we had experienced the night before. The scenery was stunning and we did pause to take a few quick snaps. I do not think that the pictures can do it justice though.
We arrived at the Nkuringo Gate at 745 and had a briefing at 8am. The 5 of us were joined by a mother and son from Holland. We learned a fair bit about the Gorillas. They are herbivores and each group has a dominant Silver Back. The group we would be seeing had 3 Silver Backs as part of it and 20 Gorillas in total. One of the special things about this group was that there were 1-year old twins, which apparently are very rare for Gorillas. We were asked if we wanted porters to carry our bags as the trek would be arduous. (I had heard many recent stories of people only walking 10 - 15 minutes before encountering the Gorillas so I quickly refused this offer.) We were also reminded that from the time we saw the Gorillas we would only have one hour to be with them and that we should stay at least 7m away from them. We were also given instructions on what to do if they charged. And then the trek began!
Jen & Anthony navigating the downhill
and then it got even steeper
(to be honest it just kept getting worse and worse and all I could do was laugh and sit on my tush for the tough parts)
first sight of a Gorilla (this is Safari the dominant Silver Back)
He needs to see a dentist
When Safari moved we followed and found the whole gang
This is one of my favourites - one of the twins climbing
I wanted to take him home with me:)
The twins playing together
I have some great video of this but unfortunately the internet is way too slow here to upload them.
The time passed quite quickly and it was soon time to start the hike out of the valley. It was a magical experience. We were incredibly lucky to see 19 of the 20 in the group including all 3 silverbacks. I think we ended up spending around 80 minutes with them as the guides were just as enthralled as we were to see them all together in the open. At one point one of them walked right behind us - it was a bit scary and at some point I will share the video.
the start of the trek up
me in the bushes (and yes my pants are tucked into my socks to avoid any nasty red ant encounters)
We reached the top just before the rain started. I think if it has started to rain earlier we would have just had to sit tight and wait as I am unsure how we would have climbed through the mud. Once at the top it was time to get back on the road. We had to tackle around 4 hours of the twisty bumpy roads to get to our destination for the evening - Lake Bunyoni.
Lake Bunyoni in the distance
By the time we arrived we were all exhausted, hungry, perhaps a bit cranky and looking forward to cold beer and hot showers. Well, we were staying on an island so some things are not quite how you would expect.
Jen standing in our outdoor shower while we wait for hot water to be delivered (and there was no cold beer to drink while we waited)
The Island was great though - absolutely stunning scenery. After dinner the stars were incredible. I think that the only time I have seen the sky look like that was in a visit to the planetarium when I was 10 or 11! We could see Venus, the Southern Cross, O'Ryan's belt and so much more (I just don't know any of the constellations). In the morning I set out to walk around the island - this was done solo as I think the rest of my group had had just enough walking the day before.
And after breakfast we went back to our secure parking and were ready to start the long journey back to Kampala (7 or so hours on semi-ok roads). We all loaded into the car and then it wouldn't start!!
Martin, Anthony & Helle still smiling as we try to get the battery charged
4 hours later, 19 Ugandans, 5 Mzungus, 6 batteries and the car was started!!!
We arrived safe and sound in Kampala just before midnight. Definitely a weekend I will never forget!
For more pictures click on the post title and you will be re-directed to the facebook album.
